On Chesil Beach: or rather on Fleet Lagoon

Day Forty Six - West Bexington to Ferry Bridge 23.5 km (14.6 miles).
Time on route 5:45hrs, walking time 5:10hrs.

Tuesday 08 May 2018

It had been the hottest early May Bank Holiday on record so I waited until both the temperature and holiday crowds dissipated before heading back onto the path. I reversed what I usually do, parking at the beginning of my walk knowing I'd have to catch the bus back to it at the end. I figured it'd be easier to park down a lane in Swyre than in Weymouth. I headed off On Chesil Beach but fortunately didn't have to slog the ankle-turning shingle for too long as the path hops onto a track at the back of the beach.

I noted all the sheep's wool caught on the brambles.  Then I realised there were no sheep around - particularly as the track was fenced off - so I inspected these bundles of fluff more closely and realised they were larvae nests.

These caterpillar nests are all over the brambles.  Just waiting to pupate and fly.

The SWCP stone signage is a nice Dorset touch.

I climbed up onto Chapel Hill.  OK, hardly a 'climb' in the SWCP sense of the word: a dizzying 40 m above MSL but enough for me to finally peer over Chesil Beach shingle spit and spot the sea.  It was a rare view for today's leg.

Looking forwards east, the Fleet Lagoon stretched on for miles.  Back in 1943 it was famously used to test Barnes Wallis' bouncing bomb.  It's a strange place.  From the nature point of view it hosts the Swannery at Abbotsbury, numerous bird nesting sites (which is why the coast path often deviates away from the coast) and other conservation preservation zones.  These nestle up next to old MOD pill boxes and live firing ranges.  So still very much a mix of military and wildlife.

Talking of wildlife, my old foe appeared.  The path went pretty much directly through them.  I didn't.

The mainly flat path had a few variations - fields, tracks and tree enclosed walkways with their welcome shade.

After many kilometres in land I came back down to East Fleet.  Chesil Beach still obscured the sea from view.  Walking around the field edges here I stumbled across the annual Dorset midgey convention.   The local chapter was out in full force, and I became their edible target.  They clung to any bit of me I couldn't swipe as their new best friend.  Believe me, I wasn't.

There were fewer midges on the board walk.  When I did eventually stop for lunch I brushed ~20 travelling gnats off my backpack.  They really don't give up easily.

Aha, not only are the bovine beasts and monster midges out to get me, the hasty horses are on the loose.


West Fleet is a pleasant lagoon.  It just goes on and on for quite a bit.  It's a shame as one shouldn't tire of seeing sand, seaweed, shoreline and sea.  In fact, at 13 km, Fleet Lagoon is longer than Ullswater - for the Lake District fans amongst my reader(s).

The sea defences have been here a while, this one has grown a toupee.

More warning signs.  No red flag flying today so I marched around the firing range.

Another sea defence - they were everywhere.  This one has the full unkempt beard look.

Portland Bill suddenly loomed into view.  This was my first sight of it all day, as it had been too misty to spot when I left West Bexington.

Goodness me!  Do the warnings never end?

Towards the end of West Fleet there are numerous sheds on the brackish shore line, no  doubt supporting the local fishing and shellfish industry.


I stopped at Ferry Bridge.  The next leg is a 21 km sweep around the Isle of Portland so I'll treat myself to that another fine fair day.  Under 100 km to go...

Ruth Recovery, Refreshment and even a Ruth Rescue

Day Forty Five - Lyme Regis to West Bexington 24.8 km (15.4 miles).
Time on route 7:00hrs, walking time 6:30hrs.

Friday 04 May 2018

Wow, long time no see Coast Path!  It's been a messy winter/spring with various life challenges, most of which aren't relevant to my walk except the one about having an accident in December and subsequent shoulder operation (end of February) which entailed me having my arm in a sling for 6 weeks.  That certainly cramped my walking style and today was the first time I felt confident being out on an uneven surface with a rucksac.  Golly, I sooooooo needed the sea, sun, coast path and to be back on the trail again.

I parked at Swyre (loved the sign post) and caught the bus to Lyme Regis.

Despite most of the southwest being bathed in sunshine and clear skies, south Dorset had a mist clinging to its coast and Lyme Regis was a little murky as I looked back at it.

And I was walking towards more misty cliffs.

The sea was calm - absolutely beautiful.  I skirted around the museum/theatre then walked up the steps to the carpark.  Annoyingly I only counted 113 but was hardly going to go back to check.

The stretch of path 5 km or so east of Lyme Regis has been very affected by cliff instability/erosion and many detours are in place.  These are sometimes sign-posted clearly, but occasionally I was to be found trying to reconcile the guide book map, its text and reality on the ground: 3 versions of the truth.  I lost time ambling to and fro and had to double back a couple of times.  My first confusion was just after the 114 steps - how could I get lost in the first 15 minutes of the walk?!  Anyway, I found my route and skipped off through the bluebells of Timber Hill.

The detour then takes you directly across the Lyme Regis golf course.  Bearing in mind this was a sunny Friday I did feel I was taking my chances as it was pretty busy.  Sadly I was too well behaved not to try and bag the golf course trig TP4590 (too far off the route and too many witnesses) but I know where it is now...

I descended into Charmouth and once again lost my route. I crossed the River Way only to discover that the path ahead was closed so I double-backed and walked the road route.  My final glimpse back at Lyme Regis before it disappeared from view.

Golden Cap was ahead of me now.  I'd visited it years ago and remember it not only for its wonderful views but for my walk off the headland through a field of cows.  I am still not a major fan of them but a few years ago I was petrified - so much so that I recall hopping over a fence into a patch of stinging nettles just to avoid their scary glares.  I was steeling myself for cow-gate when I caught up with a couple ahead of me who simply just strolled through the field of cows and calves.  I quickened my pace to keep up with them and, phew, once again I survived a bovine field.  I thanked them for being my rescuers.  One day I'll grow up and manage cows like a big brave person.  Until then...

Golden Cap trig was just as expected - trig like in all its utter beauty - TP3399.  Little view to speak of but I did manage a self-timer shot.


One of the amazing things about the coast path is the views. One minute you're slogging up a hill focused on the next metre of climb and the next, ta da!, the coast throws open a beautiful breath-taking vista that stops you in your tracks.  It's worth the slog up for the 'wow' factor on the descent.

I descended into Seatown and realised, to my horror, that I was very behind schedule. I had apparently only walked 10 km in 3 hours which was ludicrous.  I think the detours had increased my distance and decreased my time.  Anyway, I had a much needed stop and mental re-group.  A glass of wine and 4 glasses of water later I was raring to go.  And so I did.

I pretty much shot along the next few km.  West Bay was apparently 1 hour 15 mins from Seatown.  I did it in 45 mins.  It's not the most attractive town in Dorset.

But initial appearances are deceptive and, once clear of the holiday park and practical but dull breakwaters, the harbour itself is quite pretty.

Burton Bradstock is another Dorset village unblessed with a holiday camp.

I cleared the last cliff and descended onto the beginning of Chesil Beach.

I don't recall seeing brassica on a beach before - sea kale (Crambe maritima).

The excitement of a flat route was soon superseded by the annoyance of walking on shingle. I was 22 km into my walk and a pebble beach work out wasn't on my agenda. Fortunately the path detours behind Bruton Mere reed beds into a bog.  I have to admit that bog hopping is preferable to shingle schlepping.

Once back on the beach I stopped to watch the pedestrians pass.  I've never had ducks on my route before.  The duck hen was being very closed watched by her two suitors.

As my car was at Swayle I could see a few short cuts on my map up to it.  Strangely, once seeing the footpaths in reality, I gave them a wide berth.  There is bog and there is bog.

On reflection, a marvellous day on the path heightened by such a long absence since my last walk.  Plenty of time to relax, reflect and refresh myself.