When Time Stands Still

Day Forty Four - Seaton to Lyme Regis 11.0 km (6.8 miles).
Time on route 3:00hrs, walking time 3:00hrs.

Saturday 23 September 2017

The first memorable thing that happened today was that my watch broke at Seaton. So for the first time ever on the path I was walking time-blind (I keep my phone in my rucksack for emergency use only when I'm walking).

I left Seaton and walked over Axmouth Bridge. This listed bridge, built in 1877, is the oldest concrete bridge in the UK, but built to emulate a masonry bridge.

Axmouth Harbour.

Up past Axmouth golf course, the path turned down a muddy path (I was to experience a lot of mud this day).

Initially the going was open and I walked over the Downlands Cliffs and Landslips. This particular area is called Goat Island which was caused by the Bindon landslide of 1839.  It was so famous in its day that Queen Victoria herself came to view it.

Not knowing how fast I was walking was strange.  Stranger still was the route: a 10 km trek through the Undercliff National Nature Reserve. 10 km of sticky slippery mud and few way markers to measure one's progress. So I just trogged along the path in a timeless state, skidding occasionally and once falling right over and ending up in the mud.  Not my finest hour.

10 km later I emerged and pretty soon afterwards so did Lyme Regis.  It was a sunny Saturday and the promenade was full of tourists in shorts and t-shirts.  I looked very out of place in my muddy clothes and clodded boots.

I was early enough into Lyme Regis that I ate my lunch there overlooking the River Lym, before catching the bus back to Seaton.  Oh, and I'm now in Dorset by the way.  My 4th county.

There was a lot of de-muddying to do once home...

Changing Times on the Coast Path

Day Forty Three - Sidmouth to Seaton 16.7 km (10.4 miles).
Time on route 4:40hrs, walking time 4:20hrs.

Friday 22 September 2017

I fancied a two day'er but as my back/knees are a little fragile I decided not to overdo the distances for the next two legs.  I drove down to Seaton and caught the bus back to Sidmouth to begin.  Ooh, I hadn't spotted this mural before at Sidmouth Triangle.  Bet that's them pedalling up Peak Hill.

I set off along the promenade, dodging dawdling holiday makers and ascended the cliffs.

As ever, such wonderful views from the top back towards Sidmouth, and a chance to catch one's breath.

The whole of today's walk was labelled "severe/strenuous" in the guide book and it certainly was hard work initially.  This photo doesn't capture the sheer drop and climb ahead of me.

After another climb it was a sharp descent to Weston Mouth, and a satisfying crunch across the shingle trying not to focus on the 150 m ascent dead ahead.

At the top of Weston Cliff I spotted a nicely painted trig across the field but I couldn't drum up sufficient enthusiasm to warrant detour to hug it.  What is my world coming to?  It's TP6843 in case anyone is interested.  It has been adopted in memory of a Royal Engineer/Ordnance Survey employee hence its beautifully maintained condition.

Also up on top of the cliff was a field containing my nemeses.  However, since I'd bypassed a trig without hugging it, I figured I could ring the changes again by marching through the middle of this lot.

So I did.  And they gave me a stiff ignoring.

I eventually dropped down into Branscombe Mouth and came across the anchor of the Napoli that grounded offshore here in 2007.  I recall taking my girls down to the coast to view it.  They were young and trusted my every word then, believing me when I pointed to the two halves of the ship and said "now, there on your left is the 'Nap' and on the right is the 'Oli'".  I wouldn't get away with that nowadays.

I stopped for tea at the lovely cafe there then headed off upwards again.  I was rewarded by my first view of Portland Bill (hard to see in the photo, but it's there, honest).

Just after this, the path sits under the cliff top and meanders through the entrancing Under Hooken for a kilometre or so.  And then, at Beer Head, Lyme Bay really opened up and I saw my first view of Seaton.

I marched down into Beer. What a lovely row of cottages.

And doorway: two of my favourite things - stained glass and a compass...

I didn't spend long there as I was staying there that night so left Beer and headed onwards.

As it was low tide I was able to take the coast path route along the shingle.

The rocks are soft enough that tiny grains of sand (presumably) have made small holes in them.

Seaton promenade has some interesting sculptures.  "Waves shape the shore".

And "Shore shapes the waves".

I drove back to Beer and overnighted in their Youth Hostel. Cheap and cheerful, but not terribly sociable.  I'd sort of hoped that a hostel would have interesting people loafing around all evening with whom I could chat, but the interesting ones obviously headed out and I was left with with the middle-aged lady (comme moi) drinking earl grey tea and knitting (pas comme moi).  Ah well.